La Vallon Pinot Noir, Domaine Clovallon, France, 2017, 12.5%

This Pinot hails from Languedoc-Roussillon, south of Burgundy, the grape's spiritual home. You'd expect a heavier, thicker, inelegant version, but this is delicately handled, displaying the true character of the classy grape. Rich ripe fruit, forest floor, mushroom and maybe even a hint of truffle.

Food pairing: a burger!